India: 2015 - Reverence for Water (Hindu Funerals)

The water temple sits atop a hill surrounded by lush, dripping forest.  The drive to the temple took us down a narrow gravel road.  As we approached the place where we would later climb the beautiful, albeit slippery, moss-covered granite stairs to the temple, we heard flute and tabla music.  As the music grew louder, we saw banners and flags drawing near.  Velcro rips emanated through the van as the four of us reached for our cameras, until the driver admonished us with a stern, “NO!”  The driver pulled to a stop, and we saw immediately why he had reacted with such severity.  The music and banners were part of a funeral procession.  The musicians led the solemn parade, and behind them were the mourners, all men, all dressed in white, about 20-30 in all. 

In the middle of the group, four men balanced a stick-and-canvas stretcher on their shoulders. The shrouded deceased, covered in a mound of orange marigolds, pink jasmine, and red roses, was barely visible.  The cortege ended with a bearded man carrying a sheaf of dried brush and matches.  Even though we were inches apart, the procession passed us, squeezing through the narrow passage left on the road between the van and the fence, without seeing us, so intent were they to tend to their ritual.

I don’t believe coincidence caused us to pass the funereal group on our way to the water temple.  Part of the Hindu preparation regiments for the dead requires using pure water to bathe the body.  Waterfalls flanked the temple along with streams of flowing, seemingly pure, water.  The cremation site, called a Shmanshana, is located near a river or water source.  Ideally, a few drops of water from the Ganges is placed in the mouth of the dead to ensure that the soul is properly liberated (Evison, 1990).

Evison, G. A. (1990). Indian death rituals: the enactment of ambivalence  

         (Doctoral dissertation, University of Oxford).